Tough Fish

So, do you remember in my last letter I mentioned catching pike in a minnow trap that was set to catch mink? Well here we go again PLUS. In another tiny stream that doesn't really freeze, regardless of the temperature, he set another minnow trap, but this time my buddy caught some pike that were almost as long as the trap itself. Two pike, both were probably a little over two feet long. Not only did he catch more pike, but he caught a muskrat in the same trap, as well. Not one to turn down a free meal, my buddy decided to keep these pike, because of their good size.

In the sled they go and about two hours later we returned to the house. We spend about another hour unloading traps and such, when we finally get to the fish. I carried the fish inside the fur shed and I noticed that the fish were only almost frozen, not completely frozen. I put them on the table and noticed, or at least I thought I noticed, something strange. I thought I saw one of the fish move its tail. I mentioned what I thought I saw to my buddy and my he said he saw it too. Then the other one moved. Then they both moved. Those fish, though having been out of the water for two or three hours in near zero temperatures, were still alive!
Even the fish are tougher in Alaska!

Something New

For some people the words snow and cold are synonymous with the words misery and agony. For me and people like me snow and cold mean opportunity, freedom, and joy. For example, if it weren’t for snow and cold I wouldn’t be able to ride my snow machine, I wouldn’t be able to travel the tundra and the river, and I wouldn’t be learning about trapping and snaring.

In fact, I wouldn't have this little story to share if not for the cold. The tiny stream in the photograph is several miles from the river and doesn't seem to go anywhere special. I was with my friend as he checked his mink trap, the submerged minnow trap also shown. When he pulled it from the stream, we both got a shock. Instead of having a mink inside, it had pike. This was shocking because this stream is so tiny and pike are such big fish. Yet, there they were. If you are not familiar with what a pike looks like, then look it up.

I am finally starting to do the things that brought me to Alaska. Today I went out with the same friend as he put in his fox line. We only saw one live animal on the outing, an ermine, but saw some animal tracks that got us pretty excited. We saw moose tracks and wolf tracks and they were real close to the village. Pretty cool, huh?

Unless catastrophe strike again, there will be more to follow. Until then, pray for snow.

Life Before Bethel

I can't believe that I'm capable of such a huge oversight. I spent nearly a week in paradise and I didn't tell anyone about it. All I can do is apologize for not sharing Seward and Homer with you. Uh well, and show some of our photographs with you too, I suppose.

After our cross country trip from Indianapolis to Seattle, Pam and I set out to see some of what we missed last winter. Before we could enjoy ourselves, however, we had to pay our dues. The first challenge on our quest was buying airline tickets at a good price and then to rent an affordable car. We failed at both. Not only did we pay more than both of those services are worth, but we had to jump through 500 flaming hoops before we were ready to start our vacation. I hate traveling.

Once we were on the road, life was pretty good; expensive, but good. Our plan was to go to Seward and Homer, the two places that we didn't get to last winter. Our first stop was in Seward.

Like Valdez, Seward is another perfect place in the world. It's right on a major water way, Resurrection Bay, which is surrounded by huge mountains.

The one thing Pam wanted to do while we in Seward was do some whale-watching. The only problem with her request was that whale-watching season was over. You see, May and June are the best whale-watching months and we were there in mid August. Sorry, Pam. We did take a nature cruise, though. It was a half day tour of Resurrection Bay to look at the natural beauty of that place. Take a look for yourself:

If my memory serves me correctly, these are Stellar Sea Lions. If that's not right please don't bother correcting me. It will only destroy me self-esteem. Look kids! Puffins! We were on a really good boat for taking pictures, the bay was pretty clam for a breezy day, and we got really close to a lot of our subjects, but it is really tough getting high quality shots with a cheap camera.

These are some of the Harbor Seals we saw. It's tough getting their picture, because they are very shy.

And with being the home of some really cool animals, Resurrection Bay is also the home of some cool rocks that jump way up out of the water.

Back in Seward we saw some charter fishermen showing off their catch. Pretty cool, huh?

Oh yeah, I also found out how I'm going to spend my retirement years. Look at this retirement rig.

Is there a more beautiful sight on the Earth than a boat harbor that's surrounded by snow capped mountain?

We visited Exit Glacier and saw some other glaciers, but I'm getting tired of uploading photos so you don't get to see them. We also saw sea otters and eagles, but none for you this time. If you want to see more, tell me and I'll post them.

After we left Seward, we went directly to Homer. The four hour drive was long but beautiful. We saw a moose and some awe inspiring views of the Pacific Ocean. When we finally made it to Homer, we went directly out to the spit. The Homer Spit is a very cool, very touristy, but very cool place. I saw this little shop that I fell in love with. Not for the products they sold, but for the building. It is all logs with splayed walls and a pointy roof. I'd love to have a home like this.

All to soon the party was over and we made our way west to Bethel. Talk about contrast. Bethel is different in every way imaginable from the Kenai Peninsula. I like it in Bethel and I'll like it more when it snows.

Autumn is Here!

Some things happen very slowly in Alaska and some things happen very quickly. To be specific, winter happens slowly and the other seasons rush by. It was summer a couple of weeks ago and then, on October first, it snowed for the first time this year. Today's high temperature was 27 degrees and there's about two or three inches of crunchy snow on the ground and I saw someone driving a snowmobile today. This time last year I was in the hospital in Anchorage so I didn't get to see the tundra put on its winter coat. I didn't realize how quickly it happens.

Pam and I were out doing a little sight seeing today when we came upon some poor lady who had slipped and fallen on the icy road. While I got out to help this poor lady, Pam took this picture of a boat.

Obviously, heroic attempt to rescue this fallen citizen didn't impress my wife. Why do I try? In my frustration to find a way to wow my wife, I drove down to the Small Boat Harbor to see what was shaking and I spotted some things that don't always go together.

For example, I can't remember when I've seen a bulldozer parked at a boat harbor with the boats.

I've seen picnic tables and bait stores, food joints and taverns, but never a bulldozer. Something else you don't see is free life jackets, or Personal Flotation Devices (PFDs). Well, not exactly free, but free to use. In an attempt to improve boater safety up here, we have a "Kids Don't Float" program. This one of the stations set up to provide loaner PFDs. It's odd for people in the lower 48 see anything set up on the honor system especially a PFD loaner station. What's more, there's ice sickles on these vests.

While we were snapping this picture there were people breaking ice so they could get to the river and others were trying to get their boats out of the ice. These are some hardcore boaters.

This weekend was also our first Junior Native Youth Olympics meet and our first meet of the wrestling season. On Friday, I had my class in the computer lab when I got a big surprise. The whole Atmautluak JNYO team came waltzing in to say hello. They were all happy to see me and I was pretty excited too. Pam and I went to the JNYO meet. Pam got to see the kids do some native dancing as well as the sports events that are unique to NYO. Since some of my students were competing against some of my former students, I had plenty of people to cheer for.

It seems that as time goes on I see more and more friendly faces. This weekend I was warmly greeted by at least a dozen people that I met last year. Their hugs and handshakes genuine and heartwarming. Unfortunately, I had to answer the same question over and over. "Why didn't you come back to Atmautluak?" In my mind the answer is easy to understand, but when I try to explain it, it doesn't seem to make as much sense. Maybe I'll get to visit them in the village this winter.

I can't wait to see what happens next. Everything will freeze up soon enough and the tundra will become accessible to Pam and me. The real adventure will begin then.

Oh yeah, some kids in our school were asked which season most tourists visit Alaska and it took them a bunch of guesses to stumble onto the correct answer; summer. It took them so long because, to them, it is not logical to come here in the summer if you want to see the best of Alaska. They said winter is the best time to go places because that's when the tundra gets hard enough to go anywhere you want. So for your next Alaska vacation, visit during the winter and you'll get to see more of this great state because snowmobiles can go just about anywhere.

Stay warm.

To be an Alaskan Driver

It’s official, I’m an Alaskan. Well, at least that’s what my driver’s license says. The ink was barely dry when I used it to buy my RESIDENT hunting and trapping license and my grizzly/brown bear tag. All that’s left is to do is to go hunting.

My wife, Pam, and I took the written test for our driver’s license at the same time. Pam is really competitive when we do things together. She has that passive aggressive thing or maybe it’s a quiet hatred thing, whatever it is, she always tries to beat me; this test was no different. She studied all week when I was at work she even talked to the locals to try to get the inside scoop on the test and the testing conditions. She was much better prepared than I was and she knew it. So much so that she would taunt me with Alaska driving regulation trivia and little factoids from the statistical history archives. I have to confess that she was better prepared than I was on test day.

We arrived early at the license bureau and we waited. Using proven test preparation strategies, we successfully avoided any talk about the test or about our expectations. We were ready. Unfortunately, the test administrator was not. There is only one employee to service all of the drivers in Bethel and the 55 surrounding villages and she forgot her keys at home. Al glitch like that might rattle most test takers, but not Pam and not Jerry. We were still rock steady. We took the test and the agent graded mine first. I missed two questions, which is no big deal to me because I figured that is what I get for not studying enough. When it was time for Pam’s test to be graded she watched the agent grade the thing like her life depended on it. The agent drew one X and then another X. She paused and looked back at her computer screen. Pretending like I was reading one of those riveting information posters, I could see Pam out of the corner of my eye. A grin appeared on her face and she turned away. Knowing Pam I knew that she missed more questions than me. If she had beaten my score she would have said HAH! I beat you!, but there was none of that. As you know, I’m not one to stir up any controversy so I just quietly let the subject who scored higher die. NOT! Of course I arrogantly rubbed in the fact that I missed one fewer question than Pam. The next day I reminded her of the 4 second following rule and how the state of Alaska wants you to back your car. Now, I’ve gone to extremes by posting it on my blog. I know… I’m terrible.

I'm Back!!!

Finally! A little time to write. Since my last post, I have traveled widely, visited people I haven't seen in decades, and worked hard. Now I'm back in Alaska and back in the classroom.
Going back to Indiana was the last thing I wanted to do. However, it was necessary if I was to see my family again. After the long, painful year I had just lived, I was ready to see my loved ones and enjoy some rest.
Rest, however, was not on the agenda that Pam had planned. But first, I had to wrap up family business. The business had to do with my deceased brother's estate. As always, I try to find the positive part of every crummy thing that happens in life. This time, it was easy to find the good parts. My Brother Ronnie made the trip north from Arkansas to help Craig and I finish up Gug's business. I had not seen Ronnie since the day Pam and I were married in 1982. I had forgotten what he looked like. It was like meeting a new person and that's a good thing, because as kids we fought constantly. We spent several days at my brother Craig's house. We fished and swapped lies and, of course, imbibed generously. When it was time to hit the road, Ronnie and I drove to his home in Arkansas. It felt good to see some new territory and to see where my brother lived. I would like to go again some day.
No sooner did I get home and it was time to travel again. This time it was with my family, my wife and kids. We had a great time in Tennessee and Kentucky and I deeply enjoyed spending time with my kids.
After the gallivanting and whooping it up, it was time for me to find a job. Remember, I resigned from a perfectly good job in the bush so I was unemployed and the clock was ticking. I spent a month and a half looking, enquiring, and being rejected before I finally got a job. After searching widely throughout Alaska's school district, I decided to look at the district I just left. I couldn't believe my eyes. There was an opening in Bethel, Alaska for a Sixth Grade teacher. I discussed it with Pam, who was definitely coming with me this time, and we decided to go for it. The district welcomed me back and restored my sense of worth as a teacher.
I am entering my second week of school and things are coming together beautifully. I am impressed with my students and I am finding Bethel to be a bit of an oasis. My Bosses and co-workers are fine folks and I have a lot of support. There will be more on this later. For now, I bid you peace and happiness.