Autumn is Here!

Some things happen very slowly in Alaska and some things happen very quickly. To be specific, winter happens slowly and the other seasons rush by. It was summer a couple of weeks ago and then, on October first, it snowed for the first time this year. Today's high temperature was 27 degrees and there's about two or three inches of crunchy snow on the ground and I saw someone driving a snowmobile today. This time last year I was in the hospital in Anchorage so I didn't get to see the tundra put on its winter coat. I didn't realize how quickly it happens.

Pam and I were out doing a little sight seeing today when we came upon some poor lady who had slipped and fallen on the icy road. While I got out to help this poor lady, Pam took this picture of a boat.

Obviously, heroic attempt to rescue this fallen citizen didn't impress my wife. Why do I try? In my frustration to find a way to wow my wife, I drove down to the Small Boat Harbor to see what was shaking and I spotted some things that don't always go together.

For example, I can't remember when I've seen a bulldozer parked at a boat harbor with the boats.

I've seen picnic tables and bait stores, food joints and taverns, but never a bulldozer. Something else you don't see is free life jackets, or Personal Flotation Devices (PFDs). Well, not exactly free, but free to use. In an attempt to improve boater safety up here, we have a "Kids Don't Float" program. This one of the stations set up to provide loaner PFDs. It's odd for people in the lower 48 see anything set up on the honor system especially a PFD loaner station. What's more, there's ice sickles on these vests.

While we were snapping this picture there were people breaking ice so they could get to the river and others were trying to get their boats out of the ice. These are some hardcore boaters.

This weekend was also our first Junior Native Youth Olympics meet and our first meet of the wrestling season. On Friday, I had my class in the computer lab when I got a big surprise. The whole Atmautluak JNYO team came waltzing in to say hello. They were all happy to see me and I was pretty excited too. Pam and I went to the JNYO meet. Pam got to see the kids do some native dancing as well as the sports events that are unique to NYO. Since some of my students were competing against some of my former students, I had plenty of people to cheer for.

It seems that as time goes on I see more and more friendly faces. This weekend I was warmly greeted by at least a dozen people that I met last year. Their hugs and handshakes genuine and heartwarming. Unfortunately, I had to answer the same question over and over. "Why didn't you come back to Atmautluak?" In my mind the answer is easy to understand, but when I try to explain it, it doesn't seem to make as much sense. Maybe I'll get to visit them in the village this winter.

I can't wait to see what happens next. Everything will freeze up soon enough and the tundra will become accessible to Pam and me. The real adventure will begin then.

Oh yeah, some kids in our school were asked which season most tourists visit Alaska and it took them a bunch of guesses to stumble onto the correct answer; summer. It took them so long because, to them, it is not logical to come here in the summer if you want to see the best of Alaska. They said winter is the best time to go places because that's when the tundra gets hard enough to go anywhere you want. So for your next Alaska vacation, visit during the winter and you'll get to see more of this great state because snowmobiles can go just about anywhere.

Stay warm.

To be an Alaskan Driver

It’s official, I’m an Alaskan. Well, at least that’s what my driver’s license says. The ink was barely dry when I used it to buy my RESIDENT hunting and trapping license and my grizzly/brown bear tag. All that’s left is to do is to go hunting.

My wife, Pam, and I took the written test for our driver’s license at the same time. Pam is really competitive when we do things together. She has that passive aggressive thing or maybe it’s a quiet hatred thing, whatever it is, she always tries to beat me; this test was no different. She studied all week when I was at work she even talked to the locals to try to get the inside scoop on the test and the testing conditions. She was much better prepared than I was and she knew it. So much so that she would taunt me with Alaska driving regulation trivia and little factoids from the statistical history archives. I have to confess that she was better prepared than I was on test day.

We arrived early at the license bureau and we waited. Using proven test preparation strategies, we successfully avoided any talk about the test or about our expectations. We were ready. Unfortunately, the test administrator was not. There is only one employee to service all of the drivers in Bethel and the 55 surrounding villages and she forgot her keys at home. Al glitch like that might rattle most test takers, but not Pam and not Jerry. We were still rock steady. We took the test and the agent graded mine first. I missed two questions, which is no big deal to me because I figured that is what I get for not studying enough. When it was time for Pam’s test to be graded she watched the agent grade the thing like her life depended on it. The agent drew one X and then another X. She paused and looked back at her computer screen. Pretending like I was reading one of those riveting information posters, I could see Pam out of the corner of my eye. A grin appeared on her face and she turned away. Knowing Pam I knew that she missed more questions than me. If she had beaten my score she would have said HAH! I beat you!, but there was none of that. As you know, I’m not one to stir up any controversy so I just quietly let the subject who scored higher die. NOT! Of course I arrogantly rubbed in the fact that I missed one fewer question than Pam. The next day I reminded her of the 4 second following rule and how the state of Alaska wants you to back your car. Now, I’ve gone to extremes by posting it on my blog. I know… I’m terrible.

I'm Back!!!

Finally! A little time to write. Since my last post, I have traveled widely, visited people I haven't seen in decades, and worked hard. Now I'm back in Alaska and back in the classroom.
Going back to Indiana was the last thing I wanted to do. However, it was necessary if I was to see my family again. After the long, painful year I had just lived, I was ready to see my loved ones and enjoy some rest.
Rest, however, was not on the agenda that Pam had planned. But first, I had to wrap up family business. The business had to do with my deceased brother's estate. As always, I try to find the positive part of every crummy thing that happens in life. This time, it was easy to find the good parts. My Brother Ronnie made the trip north from Arkansas to help Craig and I finish up Gug's business. I had not seen Ronnie since the day Pam and I were married in 1982. I had forgotten what he looked like. It was like meeting a new person and that's a good thing, because as kids we fought constantly. We spent several days at my brother Craig's house. We fished and swapped lies and, of course, imbibed generously. When it was time to hit the road, Ronnie and I drove to his home in Arkansas. It felt good to see some new territory and to see where my brother lived. I would like to go again some day.
No sooner did I get home and it was time to travel again. This time it was with my family, my wife and kids. We had a great time in Tennessee and Kentucky and I deeply enjoyed spending time with my kids.
After the gallivanting and whooping it up, it was time for me to find a job. Remember, I resigned from a perfectly good job in the bush so I was unemployed and the clock was ticking. I spent a month and a half looking, enquiring, and being rejected before I finally got a job. After searching widely throughout Alaska's school district, I decided to look at the district I just left. I couldn't believe my eyes. There was an opening in Bethel, Alaska for a Sixth Grade teacher. I discussed it with Pam, who was definitely coming with me this time, and we decided to go for it. The district welcomed me back and restored my sense of worth as a teacher.
I am entering my second week of school and things are coming together beautifully. I am impressed with my students and I am finding Bethel to be a bit of an oasis. My Bosses and co-workers are fine folks and I have a lot of support. There will be more on this later. For now, I bid you peace and happiness.

One Crazy Year

It's about 8:30 on Friday night. I'm looking out the window of the Ted Stevens International Airport in Anchorage, Alaska. The mountains are, as always, an incredible view. I wish I could be deep inside them with a tent and a fishing rod.
The contracted school year is over. I've elected to not renew my contract and their was a great outcry of disapproval by the parents of the children in my class. I have heard people say that they want to beat me up because of my decision to leave. I agree. I feel like a failure. I want to stay and teach school to the students of Atmautluak, Alaska forever, but I don't feel that I can do that and serve my family too. I am torn.
I have had some wonderful experiences with the folks of the delta and I've been invited to have many more. I've hunted and fish with some of the friendliest people I've ever met and I liked it.
On a totally different note. This is the end of my first year in Alaska, but not the end of my Alaska adventure. I'm going back soon to do all of the things I missed out on in my rookie year. Hopefully, I won't suffer any more deaths in my family or any more life-threatening illnesses so I can get on with the business of living in the bush. I hope to get back early enough to do some subsistence salmon fishing and to have a successful moose hunt. Only fate will tell if I make it or not.
Until later, Jerry

Winter Carnival

Winter is rapidly winding down and spring is on the wind. Winter, however, has left us a gift that will not be going away soon. Snow drifts! This makes coming and going a little more challenging than normal. The snow removal chores are endless because we are at the apex of the windy canyon of buildings. Even going to work is a little more difficult when the snow drifts are like quick sand.

My house is the one on the left with the bridge. The handrail is about eight feet off the ground. That gives you an idea of how much snow has blown in front of my door.

With spring right around the corner, it's a perfect time to celebrate winter one last time. What better way than with a dogsled race. In this photo, a bunch of elder women gather to watch the grand kids race their dogs down the river.

One dog is all it take to get these 65 pound kids zipping along. Notice how low we are compared to the boats that are up on shore. When the ice breaks up in April and water returns, this river will be 10 feet deep again and barges will come again.

The carnival seems to have uncorked the positive energy well in everyone. People are out walking more and there is more happy chatter and laughter than during the darker months.

This good energy is very evident in the classroom. The kids are more cooperative and more mischievous. The rule infractions in the classroom have skyrocketed. More of my kids have been in detention this week than any week previous to this. But it's okay, because spirits are lighter and everyone seems a little happier.

It is on this happier note that I will leave you. Until next time, enjoy winter while it lasts.

One post script note: The pictures are dark because I'm a lousy photographer and not because it's always dark here.

To write or not to write

I have been putting off this entry for some time. I recently suffered a loss in my family that had a tremendous impact on me. I think it will take several months before the idea of what happened sinks in and I am able to deal with it in a positive way.

On the bright side, I learned some things about my remaining family that I really like. There is a generosity in my family that I had forgotten about. It is like the Yup'ik value of sharing. The people here have always had to share whatever they had to insure survival for all. Like the Native Americans of the eastern U. S. these people share bounty and famine equally. My family showed me that we too share in this way, though I have been too distant for too long to see it.